Monthly Archives: December 2011

Finding a leak in a chimney or roof

Posted on by Dave Albin

Q  -   Could you please give me some idea as to where I am getting a water leak from my chimney/roof?  I have a three-bedroom ranch home with the chimney rising out of the middle of the home. I recently had the roof replaced down to the wood. (I have had this leak even before the roof was replaced.)

It seems in heavy rain I get water leaking on the rafters inside the attic right at the chimney area. The flashing was replaced when the roof was replaced. I have even gone over it with more caulking. I cannot see any daylight from inside the attic indicating an opening. Still, I have this leak.

I am beginning to suspect the chimney brick is absorbing water. The chimney does seem very wet after a rain. Is this possible? I also have caulked any cracks and crevices on the chimney.

I had a masonry man over and he said the brick and mortar were OK. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Bill – La Porte

A: Most bricks will absorb water from even a light rain, but most of the time the problem is the flat portion of the chimney called the wash or crown. The wash should be designed to allow rain and snowmelt to flow over the sides of the chimney without accumulating near the flue, but even with a properly designed wash, the runoff water can flow down the sides of the chimney and soak into the bricks.

One of the ways to test the chimney wash for leaks (in the Spring or Summer when the heating system is off!) is to cover the wash with a tarp and wait for a heavy rain, then check the rafters in the attic for leaks. If the chimney still leaks, then it’s probably the brick and mortar that are soaking in the water.

Water generally will enter the mortar joints at the top and ends of the bricks, so make sure these have been tooled and sealed. It’s also important to properly “tool” the mortar joints to prevent water from laying on the exposed edge of the bricks.

‘Artist editions’ turn sinks into works of art

Posted on by Dave Albin

http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/ABPub/zoom/html/2017035103.html

Q: I’m changing out my plumbing fixtures in my master bathroom. It’s a pretty nice bathroom, and I want to make it extra special by installing a fancy decorated (painted-type) sink. What types of sinks are available when you get into the decorative fixtures? Will I have to limit my style choices?

Connie – La Porte

A: Decorative sinks are often called “artist editions,” because they look more like a work of art than a bathroom sink. Artistic patterns can include florals, geometric designs or even custom “special interest” themes.

You can get decorative sinks that are wall-hung, under-mounted, vessel-type, drop-in and even pedestal-based for that old-fashioned look.

Style choice should not be an issue. As far as materials go, a popular choice for a decorative sink is vitreous china. And then there’s the faucet. If the faucet is not on the same level of artistic flare as your sink, your entire creative venture could end up going down the drain.

Repair or replace?

Posted on by Dave Albin

Q  -  We want to move south, but recently have decided to stay in our home for several more years.  We just had to have our furnace replaced, which made me wonder if I was talked into buying a replacement by the heating repairman, or should have I have looked done a costly repair and taken the chance on another breakdown from the old furnace?  (Also, what about other household appliances?)

Frank – Michigan City

 

A  -  With the economic downturn keeping people in their homes longer and money ever tighter, it is a choice being considered by more homeowners these days.

For example, with winter at our doorstep, and concerns about energy costs mounting, many cash-strapped homeowners are trying to figure out how to reduce the $1,900 per year that the Department of Energy says the typical family spends on utilities.

A new furnace or energy-efficient windows, although both very obvious ways to lower heating costs, may not be in the budget.

In the meantime, caulking around windows and doors doesn’t cost that much and can significantly reduce the flow of cold air into the house. Opening the curtains, shades, or blinds on a sunny winter’s day can add warmth to a room.

A few other inexpensive ways to save some dollars include applying weather stripping around windows and doors, changing the filter in the furnace, using draft dodgers inside exterior doors, and installing programmable thermostats to control when the furnace goes on and off.

If your appliance is eight or more years old, usually it makes sense to buy a new one.

If you have a favorite high-end, older appliance, you may want to repair it.

You should also consider the “50 percent rule,” which financial experts have long advocated as a gauge when determining the cost-effectiveness of replacement versus repair.

If a repair is estimated to cost 50 percent or less than the amount you paid for the item, it was usually better to have it repaired.

This 50 percent rule should be based on replacement value, not original purchase price, since many consumer items have dropped in price over the years.

Always check each and every product you own for a warranty. Conventional wisdom maintains that a product usually starts causing problems the day after the warranty expires, but just in case something is covered, you should know it in advance.

Regular maintenance extends the life of just about anything. When dust and dirt clog furnace filters, the air flow is constricted and the furnace must work harder. A furnace that does not work efficiently will cost you more in energy, and its parts are more likely to wear out quickly.

One of the factors governing the decision to repair or replace is life expectancy of the product.

Most refrigerators last 15 to 19 years. Unless the fridge has been a lemon since the day it came into the house, the newer it is, the more consideration should be given to repairing it.

Freezers, which last 20 years or so, should be given the same consideration.

An important consideration is energy-efficiency, however. Energy Star-rated refrigerators produced after 2001 use 40 percent less energy than those manufactured before that date, and that might have a bearing on your decision.

Saving $100 a year might not be enough to justify spending the kind of money that you would spend for a refrigerator that would meet your family’s needs.

In addition, sometimes a new appliance will change the way the rest of the room looks, or alters the layout so much that you’ll need to change everything, increasing the expense beyond what you can afford.

It all comes down to what you can afford and what meets your needs.

The experts seem to agree that it is probably wiser to replace electronics than to repair them.

Technology changes rapidly, and the DVD player you bought when they first came out may cost many times more than ones selling today, and parts and even repair people may no longer be readily be available.

When you do replace these electronic gizmos, just don’t throw them away. Recycle them.

GREEN RESOLUTIONS TO CONSIDER

Posted on by Dave Albin
Yes, it’s great to make yet another New Year’s resolution to eat healthier, stop smoking, and exercise more, but let’s all consider at least one green resolution. Just adding one little green act can and will make a difference to our community, and it can be an easy change, or a bit more involved… whatever you are willing to do is GREAT!
If you are one of those “Bah humbug, Let someone else save the environment” people, then think greedily (as it seems those types do so well) and only look through the rest of the column for several ideas to save your money.
EASY THINGS TO DO:
     Save old medications for the proper recycling day and NOT down the drains or sewers.
     The same for paint, oil, old solvents, cleaners, etc…
     Buy compost more, and synthetic fertilizers less.
     Try organic or homemade cleaning solutions, vinegar and water for glass and floors or
         baking soda to scrub the tub, or many others can easily be found online.
     Cut back on plastic shopping bags by taking your own reusable bags to the store.
     Cut back on paper towels, use washable cotton towels and wash them.
     Use glass or washable plastic at you New Year’s party and not disposable plastic cups & plates.
     Try to ‘buy local’ more.  less driving, more time in your day, supporting local economies, building a
          sense of community…. these are all good things.
     Unplug major electronic equipment when not in use or when you go away.
     Use energy-efficient CFL light bulbs around your home, AND recycle them (this can be done easily
         near the front doors of our big-box hardware stores) or please don’t use them at all.
     Lower your thermostat 1 degree and wear a sweater.
     Replace your furnace filter every month this winter.
     Hang laundry to dry when you can.
     Carpool to work or to take the kids to school.
     Learn how to pay more bills online.
     Invest in re-chargeable batteries (they really work these days).
A BIT MORE:
     Start a compost pile.
     Plan a garden (or a larger one) for this Spring.
     Get a water filter and buy less bottled water.
     Put up a ceiling fan. It will save on air conditioning in the summer and on heat in the winter.
     Install a programable thermostat, especially if you work regular hours.
     Only buy appliances with the ENERGYSTAR’ sticker the next time to need one.
     Have a whole-house energy audit done.
And I’ld love to hear any other ideas!  Email any suggestions you might have or any personal stories of a green-change in your life that you feel particularly good about.
If you have a local business that would like to be mentioned in my column, please let me know how we can benefit the Herald Argus readers in 2012.
We can all choose to use this time of year as a fresh new start, a time to take a step back and re-evaluate our lives and what we are willing to do differently to improve ourselves, our lives, our families, our community, and our environment.
I sincerely hope we all have a happy and healthy 2012!!!

YET ANOTHER DOMESTIC DISPUTE

Posted on by Dave Albin
Q – My husband and I read and enjoy you column every Monday, and we have read several disputes between spouses over the months so you might be tired of playing marriage counselor, but now we are seeking some advice on whether or not to buy the extended warranty offered by the manufacturer. Any thoughts?
A – You bet I do!
Manufacturer’s extended warranties are generally proven to be huge profit sources. Sure, they do provide a certain level of comfort and peace of mind, thinking that if something breaks down, a quick repair is just a simple phone call away.
Some people will tell you otherwise when they tried to have something repaired through an extended warranty.
I, personally, never buy them. However, there is a way to extend a standard manufacturer’s warranty……FOR FREE. Just make the purchase with the correct credit card.
Many cards will automatically double one-year, and under, warranties on electronics and other goods. So, for example, if your new phone comes with a one-year warranty term and you run it through the washing machine on day 366, the credit card company will pay for the repairs, or replace it.
Another free perk from most credit card companies is free protection for your purchases. Unfortunately, most people don’t know (or remember) that many items they put on the plastic can be replaced if they’re broken, lost, or stolen within the first 30 to 90 days.
As Christmas spending winds down, now is a great time to check with your credit card company to see if they offer either, or both of these huge benefits.

IS YOUR CAN COLD?

Posted on by Dave Albin
Q  -  I just went out to our garage to get some old paint (2 yrs) and do some touch-ups before the holidays and the paint is ‘gloppy’ or separated, no matter how much I stir it.  Can I still use it?
Doug – La Porte
A  -  The garage is a great place to keep old paint cans and the like – until winter that is!
Temperature can and will alter the chemical composition of many household products, as well as your paint.  Latex (water-based) paints and caulks can separate when they are exposed to cold temperatures.  Even temps just below 40 degrees can compromise their ability to cure (dry properly).
You can take the can to your local paint store and have a quart matched, either by the color number/name on the can, or by doing a color match.   If you are just doing touch-ups, you can also buy a small tester sample if you have a popular color from larger brands like Benjamin Moore.
Aerosols also, should always be stored in a cool place, but a freezing climate can cause the cans to expand or even rupture.  Check your yard sprays, bug repellant, auto cleaners, etc…
Glues may separate or fail to cure once they have thawed and you need them.
Wood putty will loose it’s workability.
Power tool batteries, especially lithium-ion rechargeable ones, will never work as will once they are exposed to low temperatures.  Newer types of batteries will not experience the same degree of permanent damage, but they should be brought up to room temp before using them.
I hope everyone has a warm (well-insulated), beautiful (well decorated), and safe (no electrical/plumbing hazards) HOLIDAY SEASON!!!   And remember that after the holidays are over, you can easily recycle your dried-out  tree with simply a phone call.  Just call our LaPorte Streets &Sanitation Dept. at 219-362-2477 to arrange a time and they will come pick it up for you.

PASS THE SALT, PLEASE

Posted on by Dave Albin

Q – We have noticed a white chalky substance on the outside of our brick chimney and also on the brick walls in our basement. Do you know what it is and how to get rid of it if it’s serious?

Pauline – Chicago

 A – I’ll bet this is something many people can relate to, on either newer or older masonry work.

It’s called efflorescence, a mineral deposit, similar to Epsom salts. It shows up when moisture dissolves the salts in the brick or the mortar joints. After the water evaporates, you’re left with the white salts on the surface of the brick. Efflorescence is usually a temporary, cosmetic issue on newer brick and can be washed away by rain or rinsed off with vinegar. But on older masonry, it may be a sign that moisture is getting behind the brick.

If you have a situation where these white salts are a constant problem, then there is a definite need to find and address a moisture issue. Something as simple as increased ventilation might cure the problem for an interior wall. On your chimney, it may be due to a damaged chimney cap, so that is what I would check first.

*TIP: Washing it off and applying a masonry sealer is the worst thing you can do and a common mistake I run into. This will only lock in the moisture and speed up the decay of the bricks.

SHOWERS 101 – ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW

Posted on by Dave Albin

Shower design, products & know-how for your bathroom remodel planning.

Walk-in showers have been gaining ground in American homes for more than a decade—and for good reasons!

  • A freestanding stall can fit where a tub can’t, making them ideal for small homes.
  • Where space allows, a shower can be paired with a separate tub and create a practical layout for a shared master bath.
  • Showers are easier to use than tubs, which is an important consideration for those designing for special needs and aging in place.

 

And it doesn’t hurt that the latest shower features can turn your morning dash through the spray into the ultimate at-home spa experience. Here’s what to consider when planning a shower.

What’s in a shower?

Parts of a showerThe Anatomy of the Shower

Whether you choose prefab, custom or a mix of shower parts, these are the basic elements:

  • The base (also called the pan) forms the shower floor.
  • The surround (tile, stone or plastic) forms one or more walls.
  • The enclosure (curtain, glass or tiled wall) protects the bathroom from overspray.

Fittings are the shower hardware:

  • Tap handles and diverters control water delivery via shower heads and other sprays.
  • A drain in the floor transmits run-off to waste pipes.

BATHS BY THE NUMBERS

 19% U.S. homes with two or more full baths in 1973

51% U. S. homes with two or more full baths in 2009

Source: 2009 American Housing Study, hud.gov.

 

Take the plunge! Look at what you’ve got and what you want.

Location scout In theory, you can build a shower anywhere that you can plumb and have the space to erect a stall with a 30″ X 30″ finished interior, which is the minimum size required by code. In practice, most homeowners opt for at least a 34″ to 36″ X 36″ shower against a wall (to hide the pipes) and near existing water lines (to save on plumbing costs).

Bathtub alcoves are popular and easy targets for transformation into showers, but they aren’t the only options. Think about how often you shower, moving the plumbing lines may be worth any added expense.

 

Take a shower To plan a new shower, duck into your old one and assess it for size and features. How much more shower space, if any, do you need? Consider:

  • Traffic If two people will use the shower at the same time, allow at least 36 square inches per person inside the shower.
  • Aesthetics What materials will be on the shower floor and walls? How will the surfaces look, sound and feel?
  • Views Choose an enclosure that meets your needs for light and privacy. Keep in mind that a clear glass enclosure will make the bath appear larger and offer sightlines into and out of the shower.
  • Storage Note the number and size of built-in niches and shelves you’ll need to corral soaps, shampoos and other toiletries.
  • Seating A separate seat or integral bench can provide a place to pause and eases shaving legs.

shower with bench

  • Shower heads Plan the types of taps you want (overhead, ceiling-mount, hand-held and body sprays) and where you’ll place them.

  • Comfort If you’ll be installing a radiant heating system under the bathroom floor, consider running it into the shower.
  • Customization High-end programmable systems can be preset for multiple users and remember favorite water temperature and settings, music and lighting effects.

 

Shower without sacrifice

EPA_watersense_logo

Thanks to the latest in low-flow technology, you needn’t give up a great shower experience to save a considerable amount of water. Shower heads bearing the WaterSense label have been independently certified to use no more than 2.0 gallons of water per minute (gpm) and provide a comparable shower to conventional fixtures that use 2.5 gpm or more.

How do manufacturers achieve this water savings? It’s more than just aeration nowdays.  There’s a lot of science behind creating the perfect size and shape droplet and delivering it at the right speed and spin for a meaningful drench.

 

galvinized pipe in the bathroomgalvanized pipe in the bathroom

TIP: Was your home built before 1975? To ensure adequate water pressure, replace galvanized pipes with copper or the latest plastic piping. Why? The galvanized pipes are nearing or at the end of their lifespan and prone to leaks, interior corrosion and mineral deposits that can cut flow by more than half.

 

Get into hot water

hot waterDepending on the scope of the renovation, you may need to upgrade your water heater to a new high-efficiency model. A contractor with plumbing and heating (HVAC) expertise can suggest appropriate systems based on your remodeling plans. The U.S. Department of Energy also offers several handy resources to help you choose the right type and size heater and perhaps receive an energy rebate:

The nuances of hot water and pressure To maintain water at a safe and comfortable temperature, you’ll want to install either a pressure balance valve (PBV) or a thermostatic mixing valve (TMV). The PBV prevents scalding (or freezing) when there is a drop in water pressure, such as when someone turns on the tap or flushes a toilet while you’re in the shower.

A TMV blends hot and cold water to a pre-selected temperature. Although a TMV will be more expensive than a PBV, it offers an important advantage: You can set your water-heater temperature high enough to kill bacteria (140˚F), and have it delivered to the tap at safe and comfortable lower temperature (less than 120˚F).

 

Make it easy

Beyond aging in place, a bathroom created with accessible design in mind will be easier for everyone to use. Simple elements like a wide, barrier-free shower entrance and a handshower on an adjustable-height bar have practical applications for users of various sizes and for cleaning the shower interior. Grab bars contribute safety for all ages and abilities. An experienced designer can help you pull together an attractive scheme that includes these and other user-friendly elements.

 

Behind the scenes

Hidden air leaks and insufficient insulation are common problems in existing baths.  In addition to wasting energy, these gaps can lead to condensation, mildew and rot behind the walls. Fortunately, replacing the shower offers the opportunity to replace any damaged substructure and blow in cellulose insulation, which can be compressed to fill in gaps and create a vapor barrier.

 

Shower Bases

Step up style Shower bases can be made from a variety of prefabricated materials or created from tile, stone or solid-surfacing. They are sloped to direct runoff toward the drain and textured to retard slipping. A seat or bench may be an integral part of a prefabricated unit or built into a custom base. Depending on the location of the shower and the type of enclosure, there will be one or two thresholds or, in the case of a barrier-free design, no threshold.

Common shower base materials include:

  • Acrylic, reinforced with fiberglass for stability and insulation value, is lightweight (thus, easy to transport and install), non-porous and warm to the touch. It’s easily molded and comes in a variety of shapes. Follow manufacturer’s directions carefully for cleaning with mild, non-abrasive products.
  • Cast iron has a porcelain-enamel coating that protects the heavy metal and provides a durable, glossy finish. Chips, though rare, can lead to rusting if not retouched.
  • Natural stone requires sealing and periodic resealing. Choose a honed or otherwise textured finish to retard slipping. Use mild cleaners labeled for use on your specific type of stone.
  • Solid-surfacing, quartz composite and cultured marble are manmade alternatives to stone that are easier to care for than the real thing. Follow manufacturer’s directions carefully for water temperature (less than 120˚F for cultured marble) and for cleaning these non-porous materials with mild, non-abrasive products. Minor scratches can be buffed out of solid-surfacing and cultured marble. Deeper cuts require professional polishing. Small chips and scratches in quartz composite can be filled with epoxy and sanded smooth.
  • Fiberglass is very affordable, but it’s also porous and prone to flexing, scratching, cracking and fading.

Prepping the shower sub-floor to receive the drain and base can be a time-consuming multi-step process. Newer shower systems, such as those made by WEDI and Schlüter offer lightweight, prefabricated elements and integral waterproofing that in experienced hands can speed construction and, ideally, save on installation costs.

 

Shower drains

Go with the flow The shower drain, covered by a strainer, is typically centered in the shower floor or offset to the left or right depending on the location of the shower heads.

Linear drains are gaining popularity in custom installations. Originally used in commercial settings, these long, narrow channels are installed against the shower wall and perhaps at the shower entrance. Strainers are typically made of perforated metal, though teak and custom-cut tile and stone covers can be specified. One advantage: an uninterrupted floor in the middle of the shower. [insert photo of linear drain???]

 

Shower Surrounds

Wrap up your options Like shower bases, surrounds come in prefabricated and custom options. Prefabricated surrounds come in many shapes and can include integral storage niches, shelves and seating. They may be part of a kit that includes a coordinating shower base. Common materials include:

  • Acrylic, reinforced with fiberglass for stability and insulation value, is lightweight (thus, easy to transport and install), non-porous and warm to the touch. It’s easily molded and comes in a variety of shapes. Follow manufacturer’s directions carefully for cleaning with mild, non-abrasive products.
  • Solid-surfacing, quartz composite and cultured marble are manmade alternatives to stone that are easier to care for than the real thing. Follow manufacturer’s directions carefully for water temperature (less than 120˚F for cultured marble) and cleaning these non-porous materials with mild, non-abrasive products. Minor scratches can be buffed out of solid-surfacing and cultured marble. Deeper cuts require professional polishing. Small chips and scratches in quartz composite can be filled with epoxy and sanded smooth.
  • Fiberglass is very affordable, but it’s also porous and prone to flexing, scratching, cracking and fading.

To form a custom surround, installers typically attach cement backerboard to the wall studs and waterproof it with a membrane, joint tape and liquid sealant. Newer shower systems, such as WEDI and Schlüter-KERDI, have an integral waterproof membrane and come in a variety of lightweight, prefab and easy-to-cut elements that can speed installation.

Finally, the custom tile, stone or solid-surfacing you’ve chosen will be installed.  Resist the temptation to get too creative with the surround.  Not only can idiosyncratic tile choices look dated in a few years and put off future buyers, they aren’t the only decorative items that will customize your bath. Keep in mind that towels, wall color, artwork and decorative accessories will fill the bath with personality.  And these are easily updated as opposed to ripping down tile and replacing it with new.

Personal Countertop Touches Personalized Bathroom Shelves

 

 

Shower Enclosures

Keep shower spray in its place Depending on the configuration of your shower and the placement and intensity of the shower heads, you’ll likely need an enclosure to prevent overspray. A simple curtain on a rod may do the trick, though a clear glass enclosure provides stylish coverage that will make the bathroom appear larger. The following enclosures can be supplemented with fixed glass panels to suit the installation requirements.

  • Shower doors are made of tempered glass and can swing on hinges or slide along a metal track. Choices include framed, semi-frameless and frameless styles.
  • Sliding doors have a metal frame and track system that attaches to side walls and the shower base. This setup allows a single door to slide behind a fixed panel, for two bypass-style doors to slide one behind the other or for two armoire-style doors to slide apart. When the doors are closed, the shower entry is covered, providing optimal protection from overspray. The drawback: The track obstructs the threshold.
  • A shower shield covers up to two-thirds of the shower opening with a fixed, tempered-glass panel or with adjoining panels, one fixed, and the other operable. The fixed panel sits in a watertight channel on the faucet wall and the shower base. To ease access, the hinged operable panel swings outward 180 degrees and inward about 20 degrees. An overhead metal bar may brace the shield against the opposite shower wall. Style choices include framed, semi-frameless and frameless shield styles and square or rounded panel edges. The drawback: Partial coverage of the shower opening (Watch your aim with that handshower!).

 

 

mold destoryer TIP: For glass shower enclosures, consider an optional antimicrobial coating, such as ClearShield, that resists stains, retards microbial growth and is easier to clean than standard glass.